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International Journal of Home Science

2024, VOL. 10 ISSUE 1, PART C

Harnessing tradition and preserving bomkai sarees of Odisha

Author(s): Dr. Sasmita Behera
Abstract:
The original Bomkai is a handloom saree originated in the village of Bomkai in Ganjam district of Odisha. It is characterized by the use of coarse cotton, vivid colors, and high contrast borders and pallus. The characteristic of this traditional Bomkai lies in stepping and shaft formula to weave regular motifs remains the same in any composition. Uniqueness is that there is no fixed layout for the anchal panels brought out by extra wefts in various colours. The motifs used are Kanthiphula, Atasi flower (linum usitatissimum), Bitter gourd flower, Fly, Birds, Peacock, Fish, Lotus, Damru (Maclura cochinchinensis) etc. in geometrical forms. Rows of Kumbha (temple spires) are favourite border motifs. Traditional dyes for Bomkai sarees included lac, ochre, and myrobalan, which are natural colors. Cotton yarn of (10 to 40) counts were available in the market during 600 B.C. Vegetable dye with limited colours and shade range i.e yellow (From Turmeric), Maroon (From bark of Aal trees-Morinda citrifolia), Blue (Nile) and black (Hirakasi and Chakda seeds-Sonneratia griffithii) were available for dying the fabric.The colour of vegetable dyes was not fast in the fabrics. Gradually, the widths of looms were widened up to (48 to 50) inches; mercerized yarns of finer quality (60 counts) were introduced. A popular weaver of the area Shri Kruthartha Acharya introduced chemical dyes. As a result of which, there was a revolutionary change in Bomkai tradition and a paradigm shift from Ganjam district to Sonepur district took place. Many weavers were trained to adopt the change. Dr. Acharya promoted the Bomkai saree of Sonepur district in other states by participating in exhibition and fair conducted by handloom department and Govt. of India. But the Bomaki saree of Ganjam District remained far behind in the contemporary market due to lack of patronage and further promotion by the weavers of that area. As Bomakai is one of the identified Geographical Indications of India, its revival, contemporarization should also be made to cater to the tastes and demand of the consumers. The supply chain and market linkage can be thought of. Incentives and other assistance should be given to the Start-ups, SMEs and emerging research scholars so that conservation and revival can take place.
Pages: 219-224  |  61 Views  37 Downloads


International Journal of Home Science
How to cite this article:
Dr. Sasmita Behera. Harnessing tradition and preserving bomkai sarees of Odisha. Int J Home Sci 2024;10(1):219-224.

International Journal of Home Science
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